Vietnam

Long Service Leave starting with Perth departure on Vietjet , direct flight into Ho Chi Minh City (formerly Saigon) on the march long weekend. I have pre booked accommodation in Our VY KHANH FAMILY guesthouse is inside small alley 241 in District 1 close to main attractions.

Vy pictured with me. Below is a lovely host, providing easy to navigate options to visit. My room was neat and tidy with great aircon, comfortable bed, TV etc. highly recommended for a budget traveller.

Out of interest the locals still refer to the city as Saigon, but the communist government won the war so it’s Ho Chi Minh City on all maps and travel.

On arrival I also discovered that this hotel was only 250 metres from Bui Vien “walking street” but walking includes scooters and a few cars. It is the nightlife centre of Saigon. Had beers with a couple of Sydney lads and a gent form Belgium which made the evening fun.

On my way home – one more stop and met this group from Kazakhstan. Lovely people, good English. Husband and wife and cousin who has a business in Bali.

Saturday March 2

Walked over 20 000 steps by 2:00pm. Shower and afternoon nap before street food tour on back of scooters. Did not help my back which gave way 2 days before departure but…..

It was a very pleasant outing, 6 of us all young uni students and one grandad (me). 2 girls from Korea and 3 locals. My driver was Cary who is in 3rd year of medicine. That’s her on my right. Home by 10 with not many drinks and early night.

Sunday early start. Picked up at 7:30 with three other couples. An hour and a half drive to Cu Chi with a history lesson on the Vietnam war and interesting aftermath if you were not Viet Cong. The tunnel complex is incredible with up to three layers of tunnels connected to chambers which were the operational side of the underground. Tunnels even went under the US air base. I found tunnel movement difficult resorted to crawling as too tight and left after first exit at 25 metres.

After lunch we headed to Mekong delta another two hours on the bus. Hopped on boat and 10 minutes later disembarking. Coconut candy farm snake wine is all I remember. Next onto canoes going for about a mile in a narrow tributary colliding with other boats was par for the course. Dropped off at another wharf/restaurant. Bees and snakes all the go then back across river to start a two hour drive home, arriving at 6:00pm

No tours Monday. Got up late( nearly 8:00am) took my time and walked to a large market called Fuji Market. Everything. Bought a small backpack for simple movement and a new pair of a shorts. Had another back massage with same lady as a couple of days earlier. On planning to wear the new shorts this afternoon I discover the button hole remains sealed, what do you expect for $8??? Met a lovely lady on the street with her sewing machine and she repaired for free.

Went to the corner bar on Bui Vien for shade reasons and met Jen from Brisbane travelling solo. We had a great catch up swapping stories over a few beers then I headed home to get ready for my last night in Saigon. At around 8:00pm a 25 minute walk to the Saigon Saigon Rooftop Bar for a meal and bottle of ok Malbec from Mendoza then a walk around the area. Well lit up is an understatement.

TUESDAY The journey begins. Picked up by Chinh from “Easy Rider” at 8:30. that’s him on the left if you need coaxing. Chinh has worked for “Easy Rider “ for 17 years and knows the trails like the back of his hand. Excellent English and already liking him.

We took some time getting out of the city. Some 40 minutes later we reached the Mekong and crossed the river on a ferry and headed for Phuoc Hai. Travelling through rural landscapes gives a greater understanding of the non city Vietnamese life. We passed through kilometres of rubber plantations (creating a canopy on this road), banana plantations and massive rice paddies.

The photo below of kids on bikes. Even 10 year olds are on the roads on these electric bikes which seems to be student transport mode. By the time they are eligible for a scooter licence ((takes about 16 days from application) they have spent 7 to 8 years on the roads with all its traffic just driving slower.

Schools have two sittings. 4 hours in the morning and 4 in the afternoon, though this varies from province to province. Between 11 and 12 mayhem has kids either leaving or going to school.

Throw in the odd pagoda, duck farm, lunch and coffee stops until , just short of our final destination we reached an original VC base. The caves here offered protection from US bombing and the one we visited had a memorial built next to it honouring the names that died in the region. The offer to crawl though this cave was quickly rejected by yours truly. As you can see by the steps down which, on taking, I came away with a clear realisation caves and tunnels belong with Chinh and his little mates.

Back on the bike, passing by beach clubs, beach condos and a massive monkey who chose to cross the road (we gave way) we reached our destination for the evening. Our hotel situated in Long Hai about 150 metres to the beach. A couple of beers and a seafood noodles meal done for the evening.

Up early and started an hours walk at 6am to blow away the bike seating previous day. Beach and beach road show cases the non stall small markets that are everywhere. This is not summer season so tourism not a money making time for the locals.

Today we covered over 300 kms. I expected saddle soreness and stiff back but all good. Chinh seems to have a reason to stop every 30/40 minutes which is great. We were in the greater region of Thanh Thiet a major city with hundreds of kilometres of coast. Magnificent resorts but so many incomplete and sitting idle due to COVID bankruptcies.

The coast provides. We visited salt farms, shrimp farms, anchovy drying, fish drying, fresh fish markets and fish sauce making and of course photo ops with the local ladies. All before lunch.

The indigenous people of Vietnam were the Cham people who cultivated the country from the 3rd century to the 15th century. They were mostly wiped out by Chinese who came down for the North. There remain artefacts of their history and culture with a visit today of a 1100 year old Cham temple.

We arrived at our next hotel at 4:00pm. Massage across the road. Best I have had in Vietnam 200000 dong for an hour that’s $13.50. Nothing open after 8 so this with a few beers is it for tonight’s entertainment.

I was originally disappointed about missing my motor bike licence to drive this course and after two days on the road, I would be more than comfortable riding my own bike. However as a pillion passenger I am able to look everywhere as we travel and see far more than if I was focussed on the road. Small blessing in the end. A young German couple on tour agree with that sentiment.

Day three starts with coffee overlooking the fishing fleet as we say goodby to the ocean and head to the sand dunes.

I might look like I was in control but my driver is taking this photo. 40 minutes blasting through the dunes and him wanting to take me over edges where I could not see the bottom. Sanity prevailed and I got off the ATV feeling in one piece but glad I took the trip with him.

The sand dunes done and next the mountains. Beautiful scenery, winding roads and always wondering what’s around the next bend. Came across a group of people who are not Vietnamese but are living in the mountains almost a subsistence existence. Around the next bend stunning lakes winding around mountains as part of the the hydro-electric program.

To finish the day we came across steeply terraced coffee plantations, incense manufacturing and some unusual art. The three cats art work (centre) is made entirely from butterfly/ moth wings or part there of while the moth on the left just out of it’s cocoon (I can be corrected) is 20 cms from left to right. They breed these next to the gallery.

The town we stayed in is called Bao Loc and tomorrow we head to Dalat our largest city since we left Saigon. on leaving Bao Loc we stop at a mushroom growing concern, quite incredible really in terms of scale and method.

We now begin the journey to Dalat which is a tourism town 1600 metres above sea level and to get there we drive through peaks over a 2000 metres high. Total change in scenery and topology with a visit to the Pongour falls a highlight. Magnificent views over the valley.

On arrival at Dalat we along with hundreds of tourists visit “Crazy House” designed by one of their celebrated architects. Photos below should explain “crazy”.

Coffee, coffee, coffee as far as the eye could see on arriving and leaving Dalat. Vietnam is the second biggest producer of coffee in the world and it is all grown in these mountainous regions. We visit a coffee farm where the growing, picking drying and roasting processes are undertaken. Included was a visit to a civet cat enclosure. Here they feed the cats only coffee beans then manufacture coffee from their droppings using the same process. Price goes up 6 fold but you can taste the difference.

That evening, I use the opportunity and head out on the town finding a wine bar with a good selection and food but pricey compared to the past five days. On return to the hotel the Easy Rider boys are drinking so I join them and receive my complimentary Easy Rider shirt.

Saturday and we head for Lak Lake almost five hours of riding but with regular breaks. we stop at a pagoda with the largest Lady Buddha statue in the world built and completed in 2016. More waterfalls, a river village and coffee plantations. My back was suffering by the time we arrived but was able to have a masseuse come to the hotel. He knew his stuff working on my neck finally giving it one almighty crack and it’s now fine for the time being.

Easy riders change shifts and head in different directions. I lose Chinh but gain Bhao.

Lake Lak and surround mountains is home to Vietnamese elephants. Many tourist come for that reason.

This is also the home of the Munong people considered as a matriarchal society. Women choose their husbands and run the family. We journey off road along a very narrow cement track to a waterfall popular with locals. I might have been “chosen” a few times. BBQ chicken and chilled beer in the water is the way to relax.

We stopped at a cacao plantation from which chocolate is extracted. It is an export item for Vietnam.

We arrive in Buon Ma Thuat City the largest city in the highlands and the capital of the Province. In the evening I headed out for massage dinner and a couple of beers. Found this place Typika cafe and Craft beer. A photo with my hosts below.

Day 7 definitely the quietest day on tour. Visit a blacksmiths shop, markets, charcoal making kilns, beehives before arriving in town of Su Che. Not a recommended stopover and less said the better. tomorrows another day and we will see what that brings as we move out of the valley and start our mountain crossing to Hoi An.

TUESDAY

Todays drive is to Kon Tun and most of it much the same as yesterday however we did visit a village with a difference – the Baba people again not ethnic chinese. An opportunity to market Easy Rider so a few photos on the bike. Also we do share some roads with the local produce as you can see from the first shot.

Our hotel was located on one side of the town and the entertainment is on the other side – a 10 minute taxi ride. Great massage for about $7:00 then wandered around the town. I was approached by two students (about 16/17) who had excellent English skills and wanted to practice. The boy invited me to come home with him to have dinner with his family. That’s what I call incredibly friendly people , however we booked into a Korean BBQ so I gave my apologies but it would have been an amazing experience. I then found this bar which has 8 beers on tap. Pasteur street Brewing company. Below is Tinh the proprieter, sharing a photo with me.

It’s day 9 of the tour and overall a 9 out of 10. Having my first breakfast at nice coffee shop with a couple of double espressos so thoughts below before we head out.

Some thoughts on biking on the highways depending on lanes. I think I have established the following guidelines (there are no rules) remembering they drive on the right.

1. Bikes keep left often a marked shoulder.
2. Bikes generally travel faster and they overtake on the left unless occupied by slower bikes or parked cars.
3. Buses rule the roads. They travel 20 to 30 kms above speed limit and have the loudest horns.
4. Commercial trucks are next fastest
5. cars generally slowest
6. No one seems concerned when a bike comes down your lane the opposite way. They are simply expected to keep furtherest right.
7. On major highways dedicated concrete shielded lanes are often built for bikes only.
8. In city bike congestion simple rule is keep going if you have the right of way and other bikers move around you – but not always.

Again a fairly quiet day in terms of places to see. Very impressive 100 year old French church built for the Ba Na people.

Suspension bridges and a mosaic rice paddy pattern before we arrived in Kham Duc for the evening. A massage a few beers and a venison main dish for dinner then early to retire before my final drive day.

Started the day with great coffee then visited a hydro electric dam. Amazing scenery. Worth now commenting on the riding through the mountain regions. Absolutely amazing as you look at the sheer ruggedness yet clothed in all forms of greenery. On looking down there will always be a river or a lake winding through or around a spectacular valley. Could not get enough of this on the bike. The feeling of the wind rushing through you is exhilarating as you travel around bends and go through the gears making our way up and down the hills.

We stay on the Ho Chinh road which follows the old trail. There are some signs of the original in the following the first dedicating the building of the road over the trail, the second showing one of the few remaining original bridges then some wrecks off road as an outcome of the war.

As the tour winds down we are on the outskirts of Hoi A when we arrive at a Cham tower. From the inside an almost perfect octagonal construct from the 11th century next to my tour riders Chinh and Khao who made the trip possible.

Hoi An for five nights.
It’s Saturday morning and so nice not having to pack up the kit bag and load the motorbike. Great hotel with swimming pool, gym, breakfast and a 30 minute foot massage times 4. First two days relaxing, checking out the nightlife – this is a party town. Talk about coincidence on Friday, while walking around eating my Banh Mi, I recognised Jenn, who I met and had a drink with in Saigon. We are catching up Sunday to watch the Dockers Vs Lions at a sports bar. Wish I was 30 years younger but……..

Today I go on a tour to Marble Mountain, Am Phu Caves and Monkey Island marketed as a sunset tour. My room photo and a couple of Friday night shots from The Shamrock hotel in the night market area.

I used the gym and swimming pool after breakfast walked around and eventually collected at 2:00 for the trip which was focussed around Da Nang. Very much more modern town than Hoi A but lacks the character. First two stops were a 75 metre tall Lady Buddha and a marble factory, followed by the stunning caves of Am Phu Marble Mountain which were also etched in Vietnam war history as a safe haven for VC. Just missed the sunset with this panorama.

A couple of other shots.

It’s Sunday March 17. Saint Patrick’s.Day

Caught up with “Brisbane” Jenn to watch the football. She brought the dockers luck no doubt as we came away with an unexpected win. We seemed to click and carried on talking, drinks and dinner then headed to the Shamrock for a few beers with her friends. I managed one Guinness with the beers 🍻 and headed home around 10:00 leaving the younger generation to carry on. That’s Jenn below and a final shot taken from Marble Mountain.

As today is the last full day stay in Hoi An I cancelled a tour booking and took myself off to Da Nang’s My Khe beach. 25 km taxi ride using Grab is $18.00, beach bed $2.50 seafood lunch and noodles with a couple of beers $13.00. Sun bathing ocean swim and watching the paragliders do their thing.

Tuesday and last day in Hoi An. I’m coming back.

Wonderful stay at Allegro Hoi An – a little luxury hotel. Lovely staff and beautiful rooms. My first hiccup now as I am unable to check in for my flight to Saigon. The staff here have been wonderful in successfully sorting this out for me. Thank you Nancy.

Safe arrival in Saigon and checked in at Nicecy Hotel. Picked up by Pablo my guide and we traveled around to craft beer venues. First was a pale ale overlooking the Saigon River and finished with a dark ale at “Ice Cold Beer” an unusual name for a craft beer pub. We stopped at a coffee shop for a bit of history. these were used during the war to hide bunkers in which up to 10 Saigon Rangers would hide during the day. The VC had their tunnels the Rangers their bunkers.

The last two days in Saigon were uneventful however I did meet some lovely people. starting at the corner bar I had drinks with the owner Nguyen thi Hung (she is on the left) and a guy from Hawaii Eric plus a lady Rachael from the Northern Territory. That evening I went for drinks at The Alley Bar and kitchen and spent the night chatting to married couple Carol and Scott who are from Mandurah. Lots in common and we swapped contact details.

Final day in Vietnam at the airport flight delayed my name on ticket did not have my middle name so the delay gave time for that to be fixed. Will set up a new blog for Thailand when I arrive.